Riding Cold
For people who don't regularly go outside in the winter, it's amazing that cyclists can ride all year long in the cold and snowy parts of the country. Even skiers and other outdoor athletes can be astounded by the fact that we cyclists can log hundreds of miles during the coldest months of the year, and enjoy nearly every minute of it.
What makes this all possible? Winter cycling gear. With the addition of just a few strategic pieces of winter gear, and picking the best days to ride, winter becomes just another season to ride.
To begin assembling your winter cycling gear, it's best to start from the farthest extremities and work your way toward the center. So, the fingers, toes, and head are where the biggest improvements come.
For the head, I've found two options that work, one for mild cold and one for more severe conditions. On days above 20F, a winter cycling cap that covers the ears is usually all you need. The best ones breathe, and cling tightly to your scalp. Nike and Giordana make good ones. When the temperature drops below 20F (or wind chill is an issue), I'd use a balaclava made out of good materials and designed so that you can opt to pull it over your mouth or keep it beneath. One annoyance I've found with balaclavas that aren't soft enough on the sides is that the wind noise can be distracting because they flutter a bit in the breeze as you ride.
Your eyes are definitely worth looking after in the cold. I have to wear glasses, so mine were nearly always protected to some degree. However, during the winter, I would often return from a ride to find that I couldn't focus my eyes on things nearer than about 10 feet away. It would take an hour or so for things to return to normal, and I noticed also that my eyes felt cold and the movement in their orbits stiff. I began to think they were just freezing on these rides, so I plunked down some money on a pair of nifty cycling goggles with gaskets, the kind designed for motorcycle riders, in hopes that they would keep the wind and cold out. They worked like a charm, and to this day my vision is sharp when I return from cold-weather rides.
Traveling down to the other end of your body, you will need neoprene booties to cover your feet. Combined with decent socks, this combination usually does the trick. For the really cold weather (and to enjoy longer rides), you'll need chemical foot warmers, the kind skiers use in their boots. These are a real toe-saver on some rides, and make the whole experience much more pleasant. On days I've skipped these, I've regretted it.
Now, to the hands, and their needs. Silk glove liners are a great place to start, then a traditional cycling glove liner, a chemical hand warmer, and then a good winter cycling glove. The outer glove is where the options exist for me. For cold days, a lighter winter glove with fingers will do, but for those bitterly cold days (or, again, for longer rides), lobster gloves are the best choice. Even though they are scoffed at publicly, anyone who has tried them soon gains a silent respect for their design, which allows your fingers to huddle together for warmth while also leaving you freedom of movement to shift and brake with ease.
For the legs, full-length line bib tights with front panels that are both water- and windproof are necessary in the winter. You can get these either with a chamois (to wear alone) or without (to wear over cycling shorts). Either way, the front panels make the difference, especially when the cold winds assail your more sensitive areas. There's nothing like a descent at 30 mph in 15F weather to bring the "shrinkage" episode of "Seinfeld" to mind.
The torso is the final stop on this tour of winter weather wear, and there are two major items needed. The first is a good windstopper undershirt, full sleeved and with a front panel that blocks the wind. Combined with the right jersey and/or jacket, these things will keep you happy during the cold months. Just remember, you should feel a bit chilly going out the door. Once you're exerting yourself, you'll warm, and being overdressed in the cold can be as unpleasant as anything else.
Now, for the bike, which will take a beating in the winter, unfortunately. A front fender is a priority, to keep back road spray, and a rear fender is vital to protect your posterior from same. Winter riding means more diligent cleaning and maintenance of your bike, usually after each ride. Chains have to be cleaned, clusters wiped down, and wheel surfaces cleaned. The frame will get a coating of salt and crud, and this should be removed after each ride. Tires should be changed over to the kind that can take a real beating -- leaving your supple summer tires on is just an invitation to flat (and bear well-deserved derision).
Winter riding is something special. It takes preparation to do it, but once you've taken the plunge, you won't regret it. I've had some of my favorite riding experiences in the months between November and April. Ride cold.
What makes this all possible? Winter cycling gear. With the addition of just a few strategic pieces of winter gear, and picking the best days to ride, winter becomes just another season to ride.
To begin assembling your winter cycling gear, it's best to start from the farthest extremities and work your way toward the center. So, the fingers, toes, and head are where the biggest improvements come.
For the head, I've found two options that work, one for mild cold and one for more severe conditions. On days above 20F, a winter cycling cap that covers the ears is usually all you need. The best ones breathe, and cling tightly to your scalp. Nike and Giordana make good ones. When the temperature drops below 20F (or wind chill is an issue), I'd use a balaclava made out of good materials and designed so that you can opt to pull it over your mouth or keep it beneath. One annoyance I've found with balaclavas that aren't soft enough on the sides is that the wind noise can be distracting because they flutter a bit in the breeze as you ride.
Your eyes are definitely worth looking after in the cold. I have to wear glasses, so mine were nearly always protected to some degree. However, during the winter, I would often return from a ride to find that I couldn't focus my eyes on things nearer than about 10 feet away. It would take an hour or so for things to return to normal, and I noticed also that my eyes felt cold and the movement in their orbits stiff. I began to think they were just freezing on these rides, so I plunked down some money on a pair of nifty cycling goggles with gaskets, the kind designed for motorcycle riders, in hopes that they would keep the wind and cold out. They worked like a charm, and to this day my vision is sharp when I return from cold-weather rides.
Traveling down to the other end of your body, you will need neoprene booties to cover your feet. Combined with decent socks, this combination usually does the trick. For the really cold weather (and to enjoy longer rides), you'll need chemical foot warmers, the kind skiers use in their boots. These are a real toe-saver on some rides, and make the whole experience much more pleasant. On days I've skipped these, I've regretted it.
Now, to the hands, and their needs. Silk glove liners are a great place to start, then a traditional cycling glove liner, a chemical hand warmer, and then a good winter cycling glove. The outer glove is where the options exist for me. For cold days, a lighter winter glove with fingers will do, but for those bitterly cold days (or, again, for longer rides), lobster gloves are the best choice. Even though they are scoffed at publicly, anyone who has tried them soon gains a silent respect for their design, which allows your fingers to huddle together for warmth while also leaving you freedom of movement to shift and brake with ease.
For the legs, full-length line bib tights with front panels that are both water- and windproof are necessary in the winter. You can get these either with a chamois (to wear alone) or without (to wear over cycling shorts). Either way, the front panels make the difference, especially when the cold winds assail your more sensitive areas. There's nothing like a descent at 30 mph in 15F weather to bring the "shrinkage" episode of "Seinfeld" to mind.
The torso is the final stop on this tour of winter weather wear, and there are two major items needed. The first is a good windstopper undershirt, full sleeved and with a front panel that blocks the wind. Combined with the right jersey and/or jacket, these things will keep you happy during the cold months. Just remember, you should feel a bit chilly going out the door. Once you're exerting yourself, you'll warm, and being overdressed in the cold can be as unpleasant as anything else.
Now, for the bike, which will take a beating in the winter, unfortunately. A front fender is a priority, to keep back road spray, and a rear fender is vital to protect your posterior from same. Winter riding means more diligent cleaning and maintenance of your bike, usually after each ride. Chains have to be cleaned, clusters wiped down, and wheel surfaces cleaned. The frame will get a coating of salt and crud, and this should be removed after each ride. Tires should be changed over to the kind that can take a real beating -- leaving your supple summer tires on is just an invitation to flat (and bear well-deserved derision).
Winter riding is something special. It takes preparation to do it, but once you've taken the plunge, you won't regret it. I've had some of my favorite riding experiences in the months between November and April. Ride cold.
posted by Recycled Cyclist | 1:02 PM
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